Towards More Sustainable Fashion: A Conversation with Writer Aja Barber

The fashion industry, according to the United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP), ranks second in the world in terms of water consumption and accounts for approximately 10% of global CO2 emissions . These alarming figures even exceed the combined emissions of all international flights and shipping. "Fast fashion", characterized by mass production of low-cost clothing, is largely responsible for this considerable ecological footprint. This business model relies on rapid production cycles and consumers who are encouraged to buy new items frequently to keep up with the latest trends. This culture of low-cost consumption has disastrous consequences for the environment and working conditions in the industry.

Fast fashion contributes to environmental degradation in several ways. First, it encourages intensive use of natural resources, including water and raw materials like cotton and polyester, which require significant amounts of water to produce. Second, the rapid production of clothing leads to massive waste production , with tons of clothing thrown into landfills each year, contributing to pollution. Finally, the production of cheap clothing is often associated with poor working conditions in developing countries , where workers are underpaid and exploited.

Despite these negative impacts, consumer awareness of fast fashion often remains limited and governments are often reluctant to regulate the industry, fearing economic repercussions or being influenced by powerful lobbyists.

As a leading voice in sustainability* in fashion, writer, stylist, and consultant Aja Barber goes beyond the traditional discourse. She unpacks the complex intersections of sustainable and ethical fashion, shedding light on the roles of privilege, wealth inequality, racism, feminism, and colonialism in the industry. She emphasizes the importance of keeping these considerations in mind when discussing potential solutions to the fast fashion problem.

In her debut book, “Consumed: The Need for Collective Change: Colonialism, Climate Change & Consumerism**,” Aja shines a light on the oppressive systems that thrive in the fashion industry (and beyond), exposing the uncomfortable truths behind our “consumer culture.”

Aja’s perspectives on consumerism and sustainable consumption have been featured around the world, from CNN to the Guardian, sparking critical conversations about where consumers’ money really goes and the institutional and corporate structures that keep inequality in place.

We asked Aja Barber about sustainability, potential shifts in consumer mindsets, and her vision for the future.

• You worked in magazine publishing for years before embarking on a career as a writer, sustainable fashion influencer, and consultant. What got you interested in sustainability? Was it always a part of your job, or did you have an awakening?

After working for fashion brands and publications, and then becoming a blogger, I began to become aware of the serious problems in the fashion industry. I gradually became more and more uncomfortable with the unbridled acceleration of fast fashion over the years. There was no defining moment, but rather an accumulation of realizations that made me realize that something was wrong. Nothing seemed to add up, except for the pollution and waste.

• In “Consumed,” published in 2021, you explore the connection between consumerism, capitalism, and colonialism, and their impact on the planet. Have you noticed a growing awareness of this intersection since your book was published?

Yes, awareness has changed significantly. In the past, addressing the issue of how some systems can be exploitative to others was often met with hostile reactions. Today, people are much more engaged and aware. However, I also see the prosperity of companies like Shein ( one of the leading brands in the sector, with an estimated profit of over $2 billion in 2023) , which suggests a growing polarization within society. So we need to look to rally people on the other side to our cause.

• France has proposed a law banning advertising for fast fashion brands. Some say it misses the mark and that emerging economies will suffer the consequences. Others are happy that it will crack down on major polluters. What do you think of this proposed law? Do you think it will be enough to change mentalities and have a real impact?

I think we need to wait and see what the results are, as with any new law. It's hard to say until the measures are implemented. However, overall, we have to start somewhere to address this problem, and no law will ever be perfect. That's the way it is in history. I, for one, hope that this law will be tough on polluters.

• Some companies don’t know where to start when it comes to sustainability. What do you think should be their priority and why?

The priority should be to pay fair wages to workers. You can’t have a healthy planet without that. It’s a crucial aspect of sustainability that people continue to ignore.

• What does the future look like to you, and what do you think our attitudes towards consumption will be in 10 or 20 years?

We are at a crossroads. Either the fashion industry continues on the path it has been on, pushing current systems to ever-increasing acceleration until they collapse, or we make changes and open new paths. This means putting some laws in place, holding big polluters accountable for proper textile recycling, creating a level playing field for small businesses to compete, and applying the same standards to big businesses. We need to reward truly sustainable businesses and encourage recycling. The fashion industry needs to become fairly competitive, providing more well-paying jobs, because a large portion of the profits should not go to just a few big companies and their investors. We can have an industry where many players thrive.

Otherwise, we will continue in this direction and face serious repercussions.

• As a leading figure for change, do you have any advice for activists or aspiring entrepreneurs looking to make the planet cleaner and more equitable, while encouraging their audiences to consider more ethical options?

Treat people and the planet the way YOU would like to be treated.

*sustainability: In the context of fashion, sustainability involves considering environmental, social and economic impacts throughout the life cycle of products, from design to disposal. This includes practices such as reducing the use of natural resources, minimizing waste, respecting workers' rights, and promoting responsible production and consumption patterns.

**consumerism: an ideology or pattern of behavior centered on the consumption of goods and services, often characterized by a constant pursuit of material possessions and a valuation of the purchase and possession of products as a means of personal satisfaction and social status. It generally involves excessive consumption and a tendency to accumulate goods, often to the detriment of considerations such as the environment, sustainability, or the well-being of individuals and society.

Photo Credit: Rida Suleri Johnson